Building the Balance Sheet in the Fashion and Luxury Goods Industry

Building the Balance Sheet in the Fashion and Luxury Goods Industry
November 30, 2023 5 mins

Building the Balance Sheet in the Fashion and Luxury Goods Industry

1453666183

Funding to grow and innovate in the fashion and luxury goods industry can come from both traditional and non-traditional sources — like M&A and leveraging a brand’s intellectual property.

Key Takeaways
  1. Luxury goods companies should consider evolving risks, such as ESG and cyber, when looking at investment opportunities.
  2. As IP gains traction as an innovative financing option, firms should focus on protection and risk of brand infringement.
  3. To keep up with the fast-paced environment, companies should consider alternative capital instruments to create value and further protect balance sheets.

To grow and innovate, any business — whether a luxury brand or high street retailer — needs access to capital and liquidity. Whether looking to expand in new markets, new geographies, or take advantage of the growing role of technology, like virtual and augmented reality in the customer journey, a business will need to invest and understand how best to facilitate that investment. It’s an area where mergers and acquisitions (M&A) play a key role, and increasingly where the understanding of the intangible value of a brand can also help to fund investments.

Private Capital Attraction

The luxury goods sector, like retail, was severely disrupted by the pandemic. However, the industry’s rebound has been strong, powered by organic growth and private capital viewing luxury brands as a solid long-term investment. This is particularly true in the areas of apparel, cosmetics and fragrances. It’s about hands-on support from the private investor universe — allowing companies to expand geographically, exploit new markets, launch digital campaigns and support management teams with operational enhancements — as much as it is about accessing cash.

The supply chain has become a key area of focus as brands look to eliminate supply chain risk. Recent deals in the luxury space include LVMH buying a stake in tannery Heng Long Italy and Chanel investing in Italian knitwear company Paima.1 These examples demonstrate existing opportunities to put capital and innovation into the overall supply chain and change how luxury brands bring their products to market.

Quote icon

The private investor markets can help brands deliver this type of digital transformation and operational improvement, driving value for the customer and the business by creating access to capital and enabling the next stage of a brand’s growth plan.”

Jake Tobin
Global Co-Head of Financial Sponsors, Aon

Leveraging Intellectual Property

Of course, there are alternative financing options for luxury brands looking for funding. One of the most innovative methods that is gaining traction involves a brand using its intellectual property (IP). Luxury brands recognize that their brand is their most important feature. They know that it drives enterprise value. But rarely do they consider their underlying IP asset — the brand — as collateral. They often overlook it as an asset that can be leveraged for lending purposes, particularly at a time when traditional lending from banks is under pressure.

The process for IP based lending starts with a valuation of the brand’s IP assets — including its brand and other intangibles, like trade secrets and patents — on behalf of insurers who will then issue an insurance policy to a lender that will protect the value of that IP. A bank can then lend with greater confidence knowing that the IP valuation risk has been transferred to the insurance market. It may also be eligible for tax relief, which reduces the cost of lending for the bank. This type of structure is especially attractive for certain segments of the luxury goods sector where brands are facing short- to medium-term headwinds that have limited their traditional access to capital. From a technology innovation perspective, it’s unlikely that the luxury brands themselves will be developing the technology. They are more likely to buy it in from a third-party disruptor. Those disruptors may also benefit from IP-backed lending as an alternative, for example, to diluting their equity by selling a stake in the business to private equity.

Protecting Intellectual Property

Whether considering IP-backed lending or not, every brand should take steps to protect their IP. Luxury brands are regularly embroiled in litigation around areas like copyright infringement, whether accused of infringement themselves or in relation to a third party infringing the brand’s copyright or patents. And this issue is only further complicated by the digital era. In 2021, Hermes took legal action for trademark violations against Mason Rothschild, who had been selling NFT Birkin bags at $450 each.2 The court found in favor of the French luxury brand and awarded $133,000 in damages.

Quote icon

IP insurance can be invaluable for funding litigation against third parties who have infringed copyright, particularly for smaller businesses who may not be able to afford the cost of legal action.”

Will Kier
Head of Aon’s IP Solutions Europe, Middle East and Africa

Designing a Sustainable Future Through Alternative Financing Options

No luxury brand can stand still in this fast-changing environment if they want to maintain relevance and secure their long-term profitability. It’s why exploring traditional areas of growth such as M&A is important. It’s also important to take time to consider how alternative routes of financing for investment, such as IP based lending, could pay dividends in the long term. Equally, every brand should consider how to best protect their investment — whether through increased levels of due diligence in an acquisition or insurance solutions for potential IP issues.

Want to learn more about the latest key trends and issues impacting the luxury goods industry? Download our Designing a Sustainable Future for the Fashion and Luxury Goods Industry paper.

General Disclaimer

The information contained herein and the statements expressed are of a general nature and are not intended to address the circumstances of any particular individual or entity. Although we endeavor to provide accurate and timely information and use sources we consider reliable, there can be no guarantee that such information is accurate as of the date it is received or that it will continue to be accurate in the future. No one should act on such information without appropriate professional advice after a thorough examination of the particular situation.

Terms of Use

The contents herein may not be reproduced, reused, reprinted or redistributed without the expressed written consent of Aon, unless otherwise authorized by Aon. To use information contained herein, please write to our team.

More Like This

View All